The world's highest polo ground
Shandur is a broad grass plateau at roughly 3,700 metres between Ghizer district and Chitral — empty most of the year except for yaks, trout-filled lakes and wind. Then, for three days each July, it becomes a tent city of thousands as Gilgit and Chitral meet for the most storied fixture in mountain polo. The rivalry has been played here since the 1930s, when a British political agent formalized matches on the pass — including, famously, games by moonlight.
This is freestyle polo, the ancient mountain version of the game: six players a side, few rules, no umpire stoppages worth mentioning, and ponies that grew up at altitude. Riders play injured, the ball disappears in dust, and bands of surnai (shrill mountain oboes) and drums respond to every goal. The final on the third day, Gilgit versus Chitral, is one of the great sporting spectacles of Asia.
When exactly — and how to confirm
Traditionally the festival has centred on early-to-mid July — for many years the 7th to 9th — but exact dates are set annually by the Gilgit-Baltistan and Khyber Pakhtunkhwa authorities and have occasionally moved or been postponed. Treat any date you read online as provisional until the official announcement, usually a few weeks ahead.
If you're building a trip around Shandur, the safe approach is to plan a flexible Ghizer itinerary for the first half of July — Phander Lake, Khalti Lake and the Gupis valleys deserve days of their own — and let us lock the festival days once dates are confirmed. The pass itself is reachable only in summer; snow closes it for much of the year.
How to attend
From the Gilgit-Baltistan side, the festival is a spectacular full-day drive from Gilgit through the Ghizer valley via Gupis and Phander — rough in its final stretch, jeep recommended. Accommodation is camping: an organized tent village goes up on the plateau, or operators like us bring full camps with mess tents and bedding. Nights are genuinely cold, near freezing even in July, so pack for winter after dark.
Expect basic facilities, magnificent chaos, and some of the warmest crowds you'll ever share a hillside with. Bring sun protection (the altitude UV is fierce), cash, and a long lens if you photograph — and acclimatize with a night or two in Ghizer en route rather than driving straight from low altitude to 3,700 m.
